Which track bar should I order for my 2nd gen?Updated 2 months ago
We have a few options on track bars for 2nd gen trucks. The most common one we sell is the HD track bar, part number 1002 or 1002-LIFTED. We also have an extreme duty track bar, part number 1003, which is a beefed up version of the HD track bar. The differences between the two are explained on the product pages, the short explanation is that they use the same brackets and hardware but the extreme duty version uses a much thicker wall DOM tube (it's sleeved, much stronger) and a larger joint on the axle end. The heim joint, bracket, and hardware are all the same. If you ask us which track bar you need, 99.5% of the time we're going to tell you the HD version. It's incredibly strong, it ships faster, and there really isn't any need to step up to the extreme duty (we call it the XTB) unless you are seriously abusing your truck regularly.
With both of these track bar versions, we have stock to 3", 4" to 8", and Above 8" lift options. This is where a lot of customers get confused on what to order, specifically when they don't know how much lift they have or if the lift falls between 3" and 4". Here is all you need to know - if you're running a drop pitman arm, get the 4" to 8" version. If you are running a stock pitman arm, get the stock to 3" version. If you are running a drop pitman arm that is bigger than normal (more drop), then get the Above 8" version. It's really that simple. This is so that the drag link and track bar remain as close to parallel as possible, to eliminate bumpsteer. Bumpsteer is when the track bar and drag link are not parallel, so they don't swing in the same arc as the suspension moves up and down, and this difference in the travel arc shows itself as the steering wheel moving violently back and forth for just a second when you hit a bump in the road (or trail) at speed. The truck will continue to drive straight but the steering wheel goes nuts for just a second. This is not the same thing as death wobble, and vice versa. Two very different things, but they often get confused with each other. Death wobble is when the whole front end goes crazy under the truck and it can be caused by a lot of different parts, separately or together, and usually you need to slow way down or come to a complete stop in order to get the death wobble to quit. Bumpsteer is quick, the steering wheel may jolt side to side 2-3 times and then it's done. This happens even when parts are brand new and not worn at all - it's because of the difference in angles and pivot points on the track bar and drag link.
One side note, if your truck has more than 3" of suspension lift and you don't have a drop pitman arm, you should probably get one - especially if you have stock steering or aftermarket steering that uses traditional TREs. They will bind up when the suspension drops, you'll end up wearing the steering out or breaking something in the front end. Ideally the track bar and drag link will be really flat, so that arc I mentioned earlier becomes flatter. The flatter the arc, the less side to side movement you get as the suspension moves up and down. This is similar to short arms vs. long arms, just in a different direction. The rule on 2nd gens has always been that the stock pitman arm is okay up to 3", after that you need a drop pitman arm. Can you run a stock pitman arm on taller lifts? Sure. You can also steer with your knees, but that doesn't make it a great idea. What "works" and what is "right" are not the same thing, and you have to decide if "good enough" is how you want your truck build to go. If you're buying from us, obviously you care about doing things the right way, so get the drop pitman arm and order the 4" to 8" track bar setup if you have more than 3" of lift.
And because I know the next question someone will ask - if you have 3" of lift or less, you can't do the drop pitman arm and 4" to 8" track bar because the TB bracket will hit the top of the differential when the suspension compresses and the drag link will hit the top of the tie rod.